Saturday, March 27, 2010

In Okinawa w/ Miyavi - Departure


7:15 am - Departure

By the time I got to my hotel last night, I was no longer nervous. Once I got away from home, it was like cutting the cord. I just had to let go.

I got up this morning at 5am and caught a free bus from my ho

tel to Haneda Airport. It wasn't strictly necessary that I leave so early. However, the warnings about arriving late, written three times in bold, red, boxed letters on my itinerary, had pretty well assured I would be up at the crack of dawn. Sure enough, I was too early to check in at 6 am, so I stood around and observed people. Not long after I arrived, I saw another girl with the same tour papers in her hand. She stood to one side of me and must have s

een the papers in my own hand, for she turned to me right as I turned to her. I think her name was Kato... we talked for a bit in Japanese and English, and it was nice. I hope everyone is so friendly.



We really liked how our plane tickets actually said "MIYAVI" on them. How kickass is that.


15 min. until the plane boards!...


9:55 am - On the Plane


So, one more hour - 45 minutes to be exact - until we land. It seems the fates were smiling on me; I am not alone. I found the one other foreigner on this tour. Rather, we found each other, each of us trying not to be obvious but noticing a fellow non-Asian hustling into line during boarding. Fumbling with our introductions, I think we both sort of sighed a little breath of relief at having more-or-less an instant companion. Her name is Rosie

and she is from Greece. Turns out she heard about this fanclub trip and decided to make a vacation of it, spending 24 days in Japan and seeing an impressive number of Miyavi's lives. I was pretty impressed. Even though I live here in Japan, I cannot imagine planning and executing such a large scale trip on my own.


I am sure it was by design that we ended up sitting next to each other on the plane. I am betting that we will be roomed together too. I am really glad there is exactly one other foreigner. As it is, we are rather a unique pair among a sea of Japanese fans. Previous experience leads me to believe this may very well prove to be a valuable advantage.


Usually I do not like sitting in the middle seats on planes. Who does? However, for this trip, I was actually quite grateful, as it gave me the opportunity to talk to people on both sides of me. Naturally all the people on our tour were booked together in one big group, so we could be sure that the people around us were all 'family'. Keeping this in mind, I had no qualms about opening conversation with the Japanese woman on my right. Her name is Kaori and she is 31. I am sure, when she was approaching her seat and saw the two of us sitting there, her stress level ratcheted up a couple notches. At first I could tell she was really nervous about using her English, having heard Rosie and I speak to one another. I gave her credit for gathering the nerve to ask that first question. Nonetheless, when I replied in Japanese, her relief was quite palpable. I can hardly blame her. The three of us spoke for a while, fortunately staying on easy enough subjects that I could hold up my end in Japanese. I am sure glad of my time spent studying!


The Happy Trio



Friday, March 26, 2010

In Okinawa w/ Miyavi - On my way


Editor's Note (ha ha)

These entries were written in a journal at the time they occurred. Thus, instead of creating one long endless entry for 3 days, they will be separated into separate entries and reproduced here as they were in the original. Enjoy.


1:49 pm


Well, here I am, beginning my adventure to Okinawa. I'm at the train

station in Kizaki, with half my paycheck in my bag. I'm so nervous. I should have left an hour ago but... I was procrastinating. I'm so nervous! The last week I crammed in as much study as I could at school. Still, most of it was me frantically trying to learn more grammar, primarily new sentence structures... so I actually didn't get a chance for much memorization.


Lucky me, I had to go to an enkai on Wednesday night. Hashiba sensei was occupied with preparations, so she asked one of the other teachers to give me a lift. The drive over wasn't so bad. I was able to have a decent conversation with the teacher who drove me, and that was nice. However, once we got there, it was a different story. The teachers were all very involved in talking with each other, and I was hopelessly lost. In the end it was a brutal remind of how little I've learned.


I hope the people on this trip will be patient with me. Still, I've made a promise to myself: I will not let whatever happens with the other members of this tour stop me from enjoying it. I will try my best, but no matter what, I don't want this opportunity to pass me by.


Train will be here soon...


(Kizaki train station.. view from the 'To Ota' departure side)

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Benkyoushite Iru!

"I Need To Study!" <-- my title
...or at least, I hope that's what my title says. I do love the irony.

A week from tomorrow, I start off on my mini vacation to Okinawa with Miyavi. A part of me is very excited for this rare chance, not only to meet Miyavi, but to visit a part of Japan I never thought I would see. Unfortunately that part of me is rapidly losing voting rights in my brain. This is of course primarily due to my fear of being totally ostracized as possibly the soul non-native speaker on the tour... Ah, Lindsay, what have you gotten yourself into?!

Fortunately, panic has a positive side effect: motivation to study! Extreme motivation, but hey, that's what it takes!

Actually, that is only part of the reason. The other part was a little more exciting.
A couple days ago I returned to the teacher's room at school, having just finished with a rather depressing class, and was feeling the worse for ware. Wanting something mindless to take my mind off things, I flicked through my iPod for an old TV show I had featuring one of my favorite artists, Gackt. It was a Japanese talk show ("HEY! HEY! HEY!"), something I had pulled off YouTube, and while it had no subtitles, I generally didn't mind because it was sort of a game-oriented episode. At that moment I was feeling particularly resigned so, planning on enjoying the funny atmosphere of the show and not much else, I popped in my headphones and clicked play.

Imagine my surprise when the host started talking, and I understood what he was saying! Then Gackt enters the set, and I could understand him too! Oh man, it was like being splashed with cold water, hearing the speak Japanese but understanding them perfectly fine!

Here I must warn you not to get too excited on my behalf, however; it was a very simple conversation and the episode itself was a scene reflecting everyday life, Gackt working at a gas station (okay, that does NOT reflect everyday life... but you get the point); it was not as though I could understand the conversations that were going on in my own office space. Point of fact, I even watched a normal episode later and found that, sure enough, I understood relatively little. Still, I watched that whole show and understood maybe.. 80% of what was being said whereas I had previously only been able to understand maybe 5%. That's pretty exciting! Particularly because it was mostly without effort of my part... just the natural result of living in Japan for 8 months; Just imagine what I could do with actual study!

And study I have. With school winding down into the last week, my classes with the 2nd and 3rd years having already come to an end, I am getting more and more free time at the office. While previously I had Colleen McCollough's version of the Iliad to keep me occupied, now I just have my textbooks. It's pretty convenient to have an office full of people for me to check my grammar on, though I have to rely on my English teachers for any direct translations. Actually, on that front, my iPod had come in extremely useful. I downloaded a new application called Kotoba!, a Japanese dictionary. I love it because not only is it really easy to use, it translates not only into English, but Russian as well. Double check the meaning in two languages! Sweet!

Today I had zero classes and spent 6 straight hours studying. Be nice if I could keep that up, at least for the next week.

Cheers,

хорошо Baer

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Snow!

Just FYI,
but it's snowing!
It started snowing this morning at work, but it wasn't cold enough to stick, so wasn't too exciting. When I left work, it was still barely dust on the pavement.

Just now I was sitting at my kotatsu, and I heard a thump on my balcony. Then, a second thump. Perturbed, I got up and opened the sliding glass door to see piles of snow forming on my hanging laundry, ha ha ha. Great drying technique. The thumps were from snow falling from the roof.

They must have every light on in the city because it is 11pm at night and it looks like sunset. We've got a good 5 inches so far. I hope it sticks. Maybe they will give us some time off to play in the snow tomorrow if it does. Yay~! Only the 2nd time I have seen significant amounts of snow in Ota. Still, it was more than I expected, since many people told me that it never snows here. I think they were misinformed!

I never got a chance to post it, but last time it snowed, I was so excited... I slipped my shoes on and ran to Yuki's door so we could admire the fall of the big, heavy snowflakes together. I made a miniature Rilakkuma snow bear on the railing, and we lobbed snowballs into the parking lot. Afterward, I stood, leaning against the railing, my tongue sticking out, trying to catch some for a taste, much to Yuki's amusement. It was nice.

You kind of have to use your imagination.... ha ha.

Cheers,

polar Baer

School Notes


Not really Japan related so much, but for anyone that is wondering, I had an OK birthday. Like most things, the expectation was better than the real thing and, as it turned out, the days after were better than the actual day. Everyone forgot, actually. But the next day, Akemi made me cupcakes and a cute card, and Yuki gifted me with a giant stuffed Rilakkuma, my favorite character. On Saturday, Kingsley took me out for dinner and drinks, along with giving me a killer pair of shoes. lol. So, it worked out in the end.

(Akemi and her adorable/delicious gift)


(lighting up my life with Rilakkuma love)

(Kingsley: helping me rediscover my roots a child of the 80s)

But anyway, let's get back to business! Today I want to write about the characters of my everyday life, the little observations that have been building up in the notebook in my head as I go through work everyday.

School Lunch

I'm not sure where to begin, so I will begin with where my thoughts are currently lo
cated: my stomach. I have written about school lunch before, but I think the subject deserves further discussion. In fact, Kingsley and I actually had quite a long discussion about the school lunch, over dinner. The thing that neither of us can quite fathom is how incredibly healthy Japanese people consider school lunch to be. Without a doubt I ha
ve been told at least half a dozen times how nutritious school lunch is. Nutritious. There is that word again. Should ever you find yourself in a conversation with a Japanese person in which the subject of school lunch arises and they suddenly get that vacant look in their eyes, I can tell you what word they are searching their internal Japanese-English dictionary for: nutritious. Go ahead and help them out by saying it first; they will be delighted you agree and then you may go on to forge a bond forever balanced on overcooked fish.

Nutritious. Everyday I stare down at my lunch and wonder how it qualifies. Some days are more questionable than others. Curry Day is an infamous one: curry, rice, naan, limp broccoli, and our daily dose of 3.6% fat milk. Let's see, that's fat, carbs, carbs, OH some vitamins, and more fat. Okay, how about different day? hmm... a donut,
some salad completely soaked in dressing, some chicken sitting in a pool of oil, and an oil based egg and sausage filled soup, plus more milk... so, fat and carbs, some vitamins cancelled out by fat, some protein soaked in fat, some watered down cholesterol, plus a little more fat. Well, I can say one thing for sure: I can definitely put a bit check next to the "Fats"
and "Carbs" sections of my Nutritional pyramid. No wonder the students love it.

Graduation
Well, I've had my carrot for dinner, so now I can stop thinking about food and move on to something else. There is certainly one thing that is on everyone's mind, including my own: graduation and the end of the school year. That is sort of interesting in itself, the flurry and excitement of graduation. I distinctly remember the mildly traumatizing experience of my own mother telling me at the end of JHS, "you aren't really graduating, so there is nothing to celebrate." Well, that isn't the thinking here, which is funny, since I think the percentage here of students that go to (and stay in) high school is much higher than in the US. Then again, a big graduation
celebration makes sense when here, high school is not only non-compulsory, acceptance to a good school is considered with the same consideration and importance as college.

For me, it is only important because it means that I had to say goodbye to my favorite class for the last time. It was a good goodbye though. They wrote me a very nice letter and bade me farewell with a chorus of "Bye SEXY!" Their favorite word.

For the actual ceremony, the gym was covered with plastic to protect the floor, and all the chairs were brought in from the classrooms to provide
seating for the students. The decorations around the gym were quite elaborate, nicely disguising the true nature of the room. The ceremony was predictably long and boring, particularly because I didn't understand a word. However, I did enjoy the "long walk goodbye" that came afterwards. When all the students had received their diplomas and walked out of the gym, all the parents and non-graduates went out to the athletic grounds. Everyone lined up in two parallel lines leading to the school gate. Staring at the far end of the school, carrying all their bags and items, all the graduates, along with teachers who would be retiring or transfering to another school, walked down the middle of the two lines while everyone cheered and applauded. They continued until every last student had exited the school gate for the last time. It was very dramatic, very sweet, and clearly something of a rather old tradition. I liked it immensely.

Students and Teachers

I still have the 1st and 2nd years to keep me busy though. The 1st years provide a unique challenge that has nothing to do with scholastic aptitude. and I mean, absolutely nothing. I am not sure what happens between the last year of elementary school and the first year of JHS, but based on my currents student in both grades, I can say that the older students are unanimously worse behaved. Maybe during that brief summer they all spontaneously go into puberty and their good sense seeps out through their shiny new oily skin. Disgusting, you say? Not as disgusting as their behavior.

The same day I was reading an article on CNN about young students in New York being arrested for writing a friend's name on a public school desk, I saw a student shove one of our 90 pound female teachers across the hall; another teacher showed me a perfect imprint of the bottom of a shoe on her pants from where a student had kicked her square in the thigh. "I think maybe I should not forgive him right away," she told me; at the desk where I sit in the teacher's room, there is a growing graveyard of school supplies that have been intentionally destroyed by students; in one of my classes, there is a student who, I noticed, now brings a pillow with him to school, so he may sleep through classes in greater comfort.

I suppose it wouldn't be so remarkable except for the way in which such behavior is handled. Although I can't say the system is better, in the US such students would face detention, isolation, expulsion, or, as recently, even a pair of handcuffs. At the very least, parents would be called in and asked to take their children in hand. In Japan, I've discovered, it is the teachers that bear the full brunt. Although parents are indeed contacted about the behavior of their children, it is not taken quite the same way as it would be in the States. I asked my main English teacher about the parents of these horrible children, how they react to reports of bad behavior. "Mostly, they just blame us," she said, "Or refuse to believe it is happening at all. Teachers just don't have enough protection." No kidding.

Although it is a pretty raw deal for teachers, all around, I have to say, I think the school system in Japan is pretty impressive, student-centric. From what I can tell, the Japanese system is like one giant support system. For one thing, the student go to school almost 365 days a year, even on the weekends and during summer break, because they have clubs every day of the week. I think they spend more time with each other and their teachers than they do their own families. Actually, at the elementary school, there was this one little boy who was so doted on by the Vice Principle that, for a long time, I thought it was his own son.
The teachers do everything, everything to attend to the needs of students, even the bad ones. In addition, teachers, principles, and vice-principles are constantly being rotated from one school to the next, so no one has time to grow too bored or complacent... or arrogant about their position. Of course, it also means having to drive maybe 1 hour to work and back everyday and work long stressful hours for not exactly a king's ransom. Like I said, it's a pretty raw deal for Japanese teachers, but they remain pretty dedicated. Really, I think they are kind of like superheroes.

Everyone's Favorite ALT

After talking to my friend, I realized I should probably clarify one thing about this entry: I still love my job. There are a few things that really kind of piss me off (example: the inability of taking a sick day), but who doesn't have a few things they don't like about their job?

For one thing, the job has definitely gotten easier with time. My own understanding of the students' actual abilities (what they DO know, as opposed to what they SHOULD know) has helped me tremendously in making effective lesson plans and acting as an assistant in the classes I don't teach. I still struggle with elementary lesson plans - I find I simply can't lower my intelligence level to match theirs - but I have Akemi, my wonderful supporter, to help me out and keep me sane.

For another thing, there is simply the fact that I am not a "real" teacher. When people ask me what I do, I say "eigo no sensei" (English teacher) because it is the least complicated way to explain it, but in truth I am just an assistant: ALT- Assistant Language Teacher. So while I do have to teach classes, I don't have the hours or the responsibilities of the the "real" teachers. Of all the stuff I wrote above about the raw deal Japanese teachers get, little of it applies to me. As I have said before, my job is pretty easy.

This is not to say that I don't get frustrated just as the other teachers do. It is apparent that the vast majority of the students have no real interest in learning English. Certainly before their 3rd year (their last year, when they have to buckle down and get serious in order to pass high school entrance exams) it is very difficult to motivate students. It varies, of course, but the thing is... "group mentality" is the rule, not the exception, in Japan. This means that if there are a few students who really hate English (as there are in every class) then most of the students sitting around them will also decline in their English studies and become problem children as well. So, often enough, all the effort that we put into making fun activities for class get ruined by infectious apathy. It is disheartening, and sometimes when the ALTs in the area get together for seminars, we can't help asking each other "Why are we even here?"

Of course, there is the flip side of that as well. Lessons can be really frustrating because the students find textbook learning tedious, repetition boring, and memorization difficult; yet the minute the bell rings and class is over, even some of the worst students get excited at to chance to talk with me, the ALT. For my 1st and 2nd years (JHS), I always give time for the students to come and talk to me after class using whatever limited vocab/grammar they have. The longer I have been there, the more I have seen even the shy students coming forward to talk, because while lessons are boring, actual conversation with a foreigner is pretty exciting stuff. My teachers tell me that when I am not in class, the students often ask for me, and look forward to the next time I am in class. When I do walk into class, always I hear little excited whispers of my name ricochet around the classroom. That enthusiasm... that is why we are here. It's what makes this job worth doing.

Not to mention it's a pretty good job for stroking one's ego, ha ha. Nothing like having thirty people get excited because you just walked into the room. Even though I find it a little creepy, it's also nice to hear, I don't know how many times a day, students say "Lindsay, you're cute" "hey Lindsay, nice body", even randomly timed statements of "oh, so sexy". Then there are those moments when I can simply smile at a student who is clearly drifting off during a grammar lesson and they suddenly light up with happiness; when I leave work everyday, there is always a happy chorus of goodbyes from every student that sees me. Yeah, the perks are pretty good here.

Cheers,

ALT Baer

Monday, February 15, 2010

volcano ramen and panda buns

On Satuday, Yuki took me out to run some errands, hers and mine. While in the course of those errands, we happened to be at a stop light when a restaurant caught Yuki's eye. Excited, she turned to me, "Have you ever had 'volcano ramen'?" No, I couldn't say that I had. So we took a break and went to have some ramen. Now, I have had ramen a number of times since coming here, but this was the first time I have ever seen people actually waiting to get in. The sheer number of ramen shops makes it unnecessary. So, that there was a family sitting at the door was a pretty good sign, in my opinion. The bar, however, was wide open, so we scooted past and got seated immediately.

After we ordered, I was amused when what I took to be a placemat was handed to me. It was paper, of course, and had illustrated pictures, with directions, on how to eat 'volcano ramen'. Directions for ramen! Feels like college.

As it turned out, it was not a placemat, but a splatter guard. lol. This meal was getting more amusing all the time. When they brought the ramen, it was in an incredibly hot black dish that was only partially filled. Then they poured the broth into the bowls in front of us, and sure enough, it started to bubble up immediately, spewing small drops of boiling liquid: splatter guard! I felt a little bit like an idiot, holding up a paper shield to protect me from a bowl of ramen, lol, but it was an experience. As it turned out out, it was the best ramen (maybe because I got the spicy flavor?) that I had ever had. Yum. I do suggest it, if you have the chance.

After eating, we went to a bakery so Yuki could buy some sweets for her family. It was a nice bakery, and they had such good looking cakes and buns I had to steal some pictures.




Mmm, looking is almost as good as eating.


Cheers,

sweet tooth Baer

Valentines Day

I hadn't planned on doing anything special for Valentines Day, honestly. I feel like I have spent quite enough time and money in my kitchen making gift for regular holidays to warrant the same treatment for "fake" holidays like V-day.

However, things change. At Don Quixote, I won a Rilakkuma rubber food mold at a UFO catcher... I was excited. So, I decided to compromise and make holiday treats for a few special people.

Aren't they cute? The rubber mold came with some Rilakkuma ribbon, so I decorated a bit. When I first tried to make the chocolates, I found out that the molds are so deep that each one is almost an entire chocolate bar. Delicious, but not very economical. So, for the final product, I used chocolate peanut butter as filling. I gave one box to Chingyi, one to Akemi (my supporter), and individual ones to my three English teachers at the JHS.

Everyone said, "Lindsay, it's too cute! I can't bite it!". Psh, mercy over chocolate? I think not! "Just cover your eyes and bite!"

Cheers,

choco-Baer

Friday, January 29, 2010

I'M GOING TO OKINAWA WITH MIYAVI!!

I'm sorry
I just need to say that again:

I'M GOING TO OKINAWA WITH MIYAVI
MIYAVIIIIIIIIIII~!!

gods
excuse me for a moment while I scrape myself off the ceiling.

I was a little reluctant to apply for this trip when I first heard about it because the chances of there being another English speaking fan in the winning group of 40 is pretty low... and the idea of traveling practically out of the country without at least that much is more than a little daunting...
but I still applied the next day, lol.
because, it's Miyavi, man. How can I not?
Like everything else, this was a lottery event. Anyone in the fanclub can apply, but only 40 win a reservation. I think the price of said reservation greatly increased my odds of winning, lol. Said reservation is for: 2 nights, 3 days in Okinawa, including a photoshoot with the Miyavi, dinner with Himself and the others, and a concert.

I am so excited. This is... well, when I knew I was coming to Japan, one of my biggest hopes was that I might be around for one of these rare fanclub trips that Japanese artists sometimes have... but it was sort of a pipe dream. Going to concerts was enough.
...
but this... wow. after March, I can officially say I have no regrets.

Cheers to THAT!

ecstatic Baer

Friday, January 15, 2010

Skiing in Hakuba

This weekend I did something I love to do but don't get a chance to do very often; I went skiing. But lest I ever be charged with doing something mundane, I must add that I went skiing at the site of the 1998 Winter Olympics in Hakuba, Nagano. I skied right past the original building (and took a picture! see right) for the 1998 Olympic Ski Jumping Competition, and that same night watched the results of the 2010 Olympic Ski Jumping Competition. Rather fitting, wouldn't you say?

Hakuba happens to be the hometown of my friend and neighbor, Yuki. I always have a great deal of trouble finding people who know how to ski, so I was quite pleased to find out that not only does she know how to ski, she has been doing so every year since she was 6! Good enough for me!

So, in the morning, we went to a shop in Ota to rent me some ski equipment. It was cheap, only 1500 yen. I did eye the boots a little critically; they looked about as old as me. This turned out to be a "get what you pay for" sort of situation, but it has been some time since I have skied regularly, so I was not a very good judge of what I needed, and the shop was really small and short of many options.

We didn't leave until that evening on Saturday, because Yuki's friend was coming with us, and she had to work (on Satuday... she was a teacher, go figure). So we left at 5, and it took 3 hours to get to get to Hakuba. Even though it was already 8pm, the first place we went was to an onsen. The little town was full of them. We paid 750yen at a little machine by the door and went inside to the public bath. It was quite different from the ryokan we had stayed at in Oigami. The inside bath was quite large and boring looking, much like any public pool, with a number of shower stations off to one side. It was also the first time I had really gone to a public bath, particularly with such high traffic. Chingyi and I were lucky enough to usually be the sole occupants of the baths at our hotel. Not here! and, lucky me, being foreign, I drew a number of looks and stares. I may not mind this much on a usual day, but being stared at when you are buck naked is enough to make anyone self-conscious!

I did like the outside bath. It had a rocky "natural spring" look and, although it was walled in, was right next to the snow, with snow falling around as all the time.

Hair looking a bit worse the ware from the humidity, we finished the evening by going to Yuki's family home, where we would be staying. I heard Yuki tell her friend in Japanese that it was quite crowded, with her mother, father, grandmother, aunt, sister, and her sister's husband and two children. I was quite impressed they had room for us at all! Nobody was awake when we arrived, so we would meet them the next day.

Waking up that morning and looking outside was quite a shock. The mountains were HUGE, gorgeous covered in snow, and so close! I imagine it would be quite blissful to wake up to that view every morning.

Yuki's mother was cheerful and friendly. She was kind enough to make breakfast for us, the 2nd of that morning, since she had to make breakfast for all the family members that left for work at 6 and 7am. It was very good, though not typical of what I expect of a typical Japanese breakfast, including salad and scrambled eggs in addition to the usual rice and bread.

Two of Yuki's family members worked at the ski resort itself. When we arrived, Yuki went off to find something to unfreeze the skis from the roof (oops!) and came back with three staff ski passes. A little borrowed gift that saved us 5500-4500 yen each! I rather liked the ski pass system they used. Instead of those annoying sticky paper ones that you have to cut off at the end of the day, they used an IC card. Just strap it to your arm to scan as you get on the lift, and at the end of the day, drop it in the recycle box to get 1000 yen back! Smart (those clever Japanese).

We were at the mountain from 9am to 3pm. In reflection, this sounds like an impressive amount of time, but I think we spent most of it on the lifts. The first run of the day, we went straight up to the top of the mountain and had to take 3 lifts to get there. It was certainly worth it though. Although it was a cloudy day, we had actually risen above the clouds, and thus had a gorgeous view of Hakuba, Nagano, and Hakuba's famous 3-peak mountains (see above). We popped off our skiis and went to admire the view - along with a hundred other people! Everyone was taking pictures and asking others to take their pictures. I think if you stood around up there long enough, you'd become a professional photographer! Naturally, of course, I didn't miss out on my own oopprotunity for a photo op:

For lunch, we went to the lodge at the bottom of the mountain, where, for an hour, they were offering free Japanese soup. We had a better offer than that, even. Yuki's aunt worked at the soup booth. She brought us each a bowl of soup, a delicious mochi "dumpling" soup, ohagi (rice balls covered in red bean paste), plus two different bowls of vegetables, a chocolate covered bun, and some potato-tofu to share. It was all complements of her aunt! Their generosity was overwhelming.

The only problem was that it was really too much food for the three of us. Yuki told me sagely, "We have to say thank you [and accept it] even if we don't want it... and we have to eat it ALL. It's the Japanese way!" Oh goodie. This unfortunate revelation was accompanied by some reluctant prodding at the questionable portions of our shared meal. The chocolate covered bun, I discovered, was stale or overcooked to the point of being almost rock hard, and the inside was a really strange mix of apple and sweet potato. After the first tentative bite, it was clear that it was not something that most people would eat voluntarily. Even Yuki's aunt came over and told her it was no good. But that didn't mean we didn't have to eat it!

After lunch, we waddled out to work off our meal on the slopes.
It was really a fun day. There were WAY too many people on the mountain, carving away at the snow until there was mostly ice and moguls left. Not to mention I am so out of shape as to be a disgrace to my former abilities. I do like to put some of the blame on my equipment. The 20 year old boots I was wearing were too lose and thus made my skis hard to control. This was my major complaint; your boots should make your skis feel like an extension of your body, not like you are dragging a dead limb around! My skis were also desperately in need of waxing. I think gravity was the only reason I moved at all. But it was fun because we took frequent breaks to catch up to one another and catch our breath. By the end of the day, I was so dead tired, it was sheer will alone keeping me from merely rolling down the mountain.

Immediately after leaving the ski resort, we went to another onsen. We practically ran, just making it before closing. This one was much smaller, but had a much more elaborate selection of amenities, which I appreciated. The outdoor area was nicer too. Rather than being walled in, it was open on one side, face out toward a great view of the mountains. Three little girls in the bath had great fun throwing snowballs, trying to knock icicles off the roof. If I hadn't been in that bath myself and known how hot it made you - my skin was literally steaming when I stepped out - I would have thought they were crazy for running around in the snow naked.

That night we were treated to another meal cooked by Yuki's mom. When Yuki asked me if I wouldn't mind eating at home, she seemed amazed that I would agree. I didn't know how to communicate to her that the chance to eat authentic Japanese food in someone's home was worth more to me than any meal, no matter how expensive, in any restaurant. As it turned out, it was better than any meal I would have gotten in a restaurant anyway.

Dinner was served at a long kotatsu table in the main living room, around which we sat on floor cushions. Sadly, I didn't get a picture of the feast she spread before us, but suffice it to say that it was vast and impressive as it was delicious. Salmon, rice, tofu, miso soup, slightly burned rice balls with miso, salad, little sweet fish, and super sweet sweet potato were among some of the things she served. The sweet potatoes were particularly amazing. I will have to get Yuki to give me the recipe. I tried to compliment Yuki's mom on her cooking, but as it was, I could only thank her repeatedly and tell her it was delicious. I think I got my point across anyway.

I feel very lucky in my experiences so far.
Cheers,